Environmental Management
Programme for Climbing on the Peninsula Mountain Chain:
March 2000
TABLE OF CONTENTS
CHAPTER 1: INTRODUCTION
1.1 1.1 Background To Climbing On The Peninsula
1.2 Approach to the Environmental Management Plan
1.3 Scope of this Document
CHAPTER 2: ENVIRONMENTAL POLICY
CHAPTER 3: ENVIRONMENTAL IMPACTS AND ISSUES
3.1 Potential Impacts Identified
3.2 Significance Of Impacts
CHAPTER 4: MANAGEMENT PLAN
4.1 Organisational Structures
4.2 Proposed Categories Of Climbing Venues
4.3 Management Objectives And Actions
4.4 Management Of New Routes And Venues
4.4.1 Existing Sport Climbing Venues
4.4.2 Sport Climbing Venues in Sensitive Areas
4.4.3 New Proposed Sport Climbing Venues
CHAPTER 5: IMPLEMENTATION AND REVIEW
5.1 Responsibilities And Monitoring
5.1.1 South African National Parks
5.1.2 Sport Climbing Working Committee
5.2 Correction And Enforcement
5.3 Review
CHAPTER 6: List of Contributors and References
6.1 Contributers
6.2 Consultation with Sport Climbers
6.3 Way Forward
6.4 References
Attendance register
The first recorded ascent of Table Mountain was in 1488 by Antonia de Saldanha. The first rock-climbs were, however, only established many years later by Jim Searle between 1894 and 1895. Rock-climbing developed very rapidly after this especially with the achievements of George Traverse-Jackson between 1895 and 1907 and later by Berrisford, Londt, Marcus, Kaplan, Cameron, Mamacos, Fletcher, Scott and others. In the 100 years of rock-climbing on the Cape Peninsula since 1894 when Searle first climbed Right Face, climbing development has been closely aligned to new developments in equipment.
The initial routes of Searle and Traverse-Jackson were climbed without the benefit of any safety precautions such as ropes or belays. Around 1914, with the introduction of rubber-soled shoes, climbing grades shot up dramatically and by the 1930's the leader passed the rope over projections in the rock face as a safety precaution in the event of a fall. The golden rule, however, was that the leader never fell because the hemp rope running over a rock belay would in all probability snap if shock loaded. After World War II, due to the technological advances of the War, nylon ropes and slings as well as pitons and karabiners became available. With these advances in equipment came major advances in safety and as leader safety improved so too did the standard of climbing. The Journals of the Mountain Club of South Africa record the controversies that arose with every advance in equipment, but these same Journals also record the major advances in rock-climbing made by this technology. By the mid 1970's the piton had been totally replaced by metal wedges which could be placed or removed by hand, ropes were cheaper and more easily available and leaders now fell more readily.
It is at this stage that climbing grades on the Peninsula reached a peak. With all the improvements in gear through the 1980's especially in footwear, the grades of the new routes did not increase dramatically until a new trend of short (10-20m) routes started to develop. This trend pushed the standard of climbing on the Peninsula to an all time high. New routes were still, however, restricted to cracks and other natural faults in the rock in which protection for the leader could be inserted.
Through the 1980's and starting on Lions Head fixed protection in the form of bolts began to make an appearance. This form of protection now made accessible rock that would otherwise be unsafe due to a lack of natural features for protection and enabled climbers to do harder routes. Termed 'Sport Climbing', this new development in safety has meant a massive increase in the popularity of climbing. For the first time, the leader could fall with relative impunity.
This increase in safety has meant that there are now more people climbing on the Peninsula than ever before. The Cape Peninsula has a high concentration of fully equipped sport routes and is an exceptionally valuable resource for climbers, as the mountains are easily accessible and offer a very high quality of route. The resource is not limitless, however and the ever increasing popularity of sport climbing will impact on it. It is now more imperative than ever that climbing is properly managed. This document is the first step in that direction.
The Environmental Management Plan outlined in this document involves an ongoing process of formulation, planning, implementation and evaluation of an environmental policy. The steps required in this process are outlined below:
* Environmental Policy
The environmental policy forms a statement of climbers intentions regarding
their environmental performance. It provides guiding principles and aids in
the setting of objectives and targets. This policy needs to be endorsed by climbers.
* Planning
The activities relating to sport climbing have been reviewed and an initial
assessment has established the impact they have on the environment. This provides
a starting point from which objectives and targets for management can be set.
The degree of practical control over the environmental aspects being considered
should be taken into account. Priority objectives and targets need to be decided
upon and a management programme and tools developed to meet them. Resources
are also committed for implementation. Part of this programme has been developed
for comment but it needs to be endorsed by climbers and SANP.
* Implementation
This requires the execution and operation of the management programme.
* Review and evaluation leading to improvement
Deficiencies and shortcomings in the management plan will need to be addressed
and the effectiveness of the programme checked. It is important that the EMS
is continually reviewed and improved with the objective of improving overall
environmental performance.
An Environmental Management Plan based on the principles of EMS thus forms a flexible system that is adaptable to changing circumstances.
Subject to the approval of South African National Parks (SANP), this document sets out a number of proposals to manage sport climbing and bouldering on the Peninsula Mountain Chain
This document sets out the beginnings of a proposed management system for climbing on the Peninsula. An environmental policy has been formulated which clearly outlines the principles by which climbing activities will be guided.
The potential impacts of climbing have been identified and an initial assessment undertaken.
After discussions held at the Upper Cable Station on Table Mountain with South African National Parks representatives in 1997 it was decided that traditional (adventure) climbing and scrambling would not be included in this document because of the limited environemental impacts associated with this type of climbing. However, despite this decision, all climbers should be committed to the environmental concerns inherent in Chapter Two and Chapter Three of this document
A draft management programme has been proposed that outlines how a Sport Climbing Working Committee (SCWC) together with climbers will monitor and regulate sport climbing activities and the impacts associated with this form of climbing. This system will hopefully enable the SCWC to work jointly with SANP o maximise the benefits of climbing whilst minimising the negative environmental impacts. The proposals set out in this document should form the basis for an ongoing and growing system to manage sport climbing on the Peninsula. NOTE: While this document intends for the regulation of the sport, climbing is an inherently dangerous sport and prospective climbers must recognise that the responsibility for their safety lies purely with themselves.
* Minimising the impact of climbing activities on
the natural environment, including indigenous fauna and flora
* Minimising the visual impact of fixed protection
* Minimising impacts on the cultural and historical environment includig all
archaelogical and palaeontological sites
* Adhering to standards for fixed protection that conform with safety standards
appropriate to environmental conditions on the Cape Peninsula
* Co-operating with managing authorities and recognising and responding to their
concerns
* Identifying and assessing the significance of impacts associated with potential
new climbing areas in conjunction with SANP and other interested and affected
parties
* Monitoring sport climbing and bouldering activities to ensure compliance with
the principles outlined above
This environmental policy provides a framework for action and the setting of objectives and targets.
Table 1. The potential impacts of climbing
| Activities | Potential Impacts | Status |
| Walking to and from venue | Erosion of footpaths Trampling and removal of indigenous vegetation Litter Access to natural environment Exercise Awareness of environmental issues |
-ve -ve -ve +ve +ve +ve |
| Belaying and Climbing | Erosion of base of crag Trampling of indigenous vegetation Removal of indigenous vegetation Disturbance of animals and nesting/ endangered birds Litter Waste Disturbance of archaeologically sensitive sites Trampling and removal of alien vegetation Recreational use of the natural environment Positive psychological experience Physical exercise |
-ve -ve -ve -ve -ve -ve -ve +ve +ve +ve +ve |
| Bolting/New routes/Retrobolting | Removal of indigenous vegetation Disturbance of animals and nesting/endangered birds Visual impact of fixed protection Damage to rock art Noise from drilling Increased tourism Climbing/Leading and lower-off safety Positive psychological experience |
-ve -ve -ve -ve -ve +ve +ve +ve |
Table 2. Criteria used to determine the significance ratings
| Criteria | Categories |
| Spatial extent/influence of impact | Site specific or local Regional National |
| Magnitude of impact at spatial scale | High: Natural and/or social functions and/or processes are severely altered Medium: Natural and/or social functions and/or processes are notable altered Low: Natural and/or social functions and/or processes are negligibly altered |
| Duration | Temporary (<1 year) Short term (1 to 6 years) Medium term (6 to 10 years) Long term (> 10 years) |
Given these criteria, the significance ratings have
been defined as below:
* High: impacts of high magnitude locally for longer than 6 years and/or regionally
and beyond
* Medium: impacts of moderate magnitude locally to regionally in the short term
* Low to very low: impacts will be localised and temporary.
* No impact: a potential concern or impact which, upon evaluation, is found
to have no significant impact at all.
It should be noted that for some of the potential impacts that were identified, their significance may vary from area to area. This will depend on the specific conditions present at a particular climbing venue. For example, erosion at the base of a climbing area will depend on how susceptible the soil is to erosion and the amount of solid rock present. In Table 3, the significance ratings have been assigned for impacts both without and with management actions.
Table 3: Significance of Impacts
| Activities | Potential Impacts | Status | Significance: No management | Significance: Management |
| Walking to and from venue | Erosion of footpaths Trampling and removal of indigenous vegetation Litter Access to natural environment Exercise Awareness of environmental issues |
-ve -ve -ve +ve +ve +ve |
High High Medium Medium Low Medium |
Low Medium No impact Medium Low Medium |
| Belaying and Climbing | Erosion of base of crag Trampling of indigenous vegetation Removal of indigenous vegetation Disturbance of animals and nesting/endangered birds Litter Waste Disturbance of archaeologically sensitive sites Recreational use of the natural environment Positive psychological experience Physical exercise |
-ve -ve -ve -ve -ve -ve -ve +ve +ve +ve |
High Medium High Medium Medium Low High Medium Medium Medium |
Low Low Medium Low Low to No impact Low to No impact Low to No impact Medium High Medium |
| Bolting/New routes | Removal of indigenous vegetation Disturbance of animals and nesting/endangered birds Visual impact of fixed protection Damage to rock art Noise from drilling Increased tourism Climbing/Leading and lower off safety Positive psychological experience |
-ve -ve -ve -ve -ve +ve +ve +ve |
High Medium Medium High Low Medium Medium Medium |
Medium Low Low Medium Low to No impact High High High |
* South African National Parks (SANP)
South African National Parks (SANP) are the managing authority of the Cape
Peninsula National Park and as such, are the ultimate decision making authority.
They have the right to establish rules and regulations regarding all activities
within the national park.
* Sport Climbing Working Committee
It is proposed that a Sport Climbing Working Committee (SCWC) that consists
of representatives from the climbing community, be democratically elected by
climbing users of the Peninsula Mountain Chain. The committee should consist
of no less than 5 members. There should be continuity from one elected committee
to the next, in that two members of each committee should serve a double term.
Election of members will take place at a meeting called specifically for the
purpose and votes will also be accepted by proxy, e-mail, letter or fax.
The first committee elected will be responsible for drawing up a constitution. This committee will set in place clear criteria and guidelines for dispute resolution.
The following categories of venue are suggested in order to facilitate their management:
* Existing sport climbing venues
These are areas that currently have sport routes, and are widely utilised.
In most cases, access has been negotiated and granted, and in some instances
use of the venue is implicit (such as the use of quarries).
* Sport climbing venues in sensitive areas
These are areas that currently have sport routes and are widely utilised
for this purpose. Certain conditions have made some portion or all of these
venues sensitive enough to require a higher level of management
* New proposed sport climbing venues
Other opportunities exist for new venues. Such new venues will require an
environmental assessment before use is granted. If a venue is approved it will
be delegated into one of the aforementioned two categories.
* Bouldering areas
These areas consist of groupings of boulders where bouldering is done.
Annexure 1 provides a map of the Cape Peninsula showing present sport climbing venues, and Annexure 2 shows envisaged categorisation of these venues. All climbing venues presently utilisd forsport climbing will have to be assessed and approved at the implementation of the management programme.
A bi-annual meeting is proposed between the SCWC and SANP to discuss the status of management of climbing activities on the Peninsula. In addition, a number of management objectives and actions are outlined below. These management actions are to apply to all climbing venues. All climbers will be expected to comply with the provisions outlined below.
Many of the management actions discussed below should occur on self-regulatory basis, with climbers taking responsibility for their own actions. These management actions are to be taken in respect of all types of climbing venue being used i.e. existing venues, venues in sensitive areas.
* Erosion
The SCWC will monitor the state of paths and discuss this at a proposed
bi-annual meeting between the SCWC and SANP. A summary report (inclduing maps
where necessary) detailing actions needed to upgrade paths should be drawn up
before the meeting. The total number of new paths required to service new venues
is probably minimal and some existing paths are urgently in need of maintenance.
All climbers are required to utilise existing paths.
Vegetation removal and trampling at the base of venues should be avoided at all costs to prevent erpsion. Where possible, actions should be taken to put erosion control measures in place. Areas requiring such measures may be identified by SANP. SANP will provide materials and techinical knowledge and the SCWC will be reuired to put measures in place.
* Vegetation
The maintenance and creation of proper access paths will limit the impact
on indigenous vegetation.
Removal of indigenous vegetation will be limited. Removal of vegetation will not be condoned. The size of the area of activity at the base of the venue will be limited so as to minimise impacts on indigenous vegetation.
If alien vegetation occurs within the immediate vicinity of the venue, this will be removed by SANP.
* Litter and Waste
No foreign material of any kind is to be left behind at climbing venues.
Defecation should be avoided at all costs, but, if necessary, should take
place well away (50m is recommended) from venues, paths and streamd, and
be buried.
At the discretion of the SCWC, or at the request of SANP, the Working Committee will organise clean-ups of climbing venues, or paths used exclusively to reach climbing venues.
* Disturbance of animals and birds
Nesting and endangered birds should not be disturbed. Seasonal closure
of crags will occur if nesting birds are likely to be disturbed. The folowing
precedure will apply:
No new route will be approved if, in the opinion of an expert, it will disturb an endangered or nesting bird.
* Archaeological sites
Archaeological sites are not to be disturbed. Approval of new routes
will not occur if they impinge on archaeological sites.
The location of significant archaelogical sites at existing venue and measures to protect these sites are listed in Annnexure 3.
* Fixed Protection
Fixed protection will be as unobtrusive as possible and, where possible,
will be painted to blend in with the rock colour. Painting of fixed protection
should occur before such protection is placed.
In situations where non-climbers use the vicinity of a venue, drilling should only be carried out in the absence of other mountain users, or with their express permission to proceed.
All fixed protection that is placed on the Peninsula Mountain Chain should comply with acceptable safety standards.
All current sport climbing venues will require approval from SANP before allocation into one of the three categories of sport climbing venue at the outset of the implementation of this Management Programme.
Exempt venues
Certain venues will be exempt i.e. new route will be not require prior permission of the Committee. These venues are to be determined by the Committee and SANP within 2 months of the commencement of the provisions of this Management Plan.
Venues falling into this category have been suggested in Annexure 2.
Other crags
New routes at all other crags will require permission from the Committee. Proposals for new routes should be addressed to the SCWC and either posted to or handed to the Secretary at the Mountain Club of South Africa (MSCSA) at the following address between 10am and 2pm on weekdays:
Sport Climbing Working Committee
C/O The Mountain Club of South Africa
97 Hatfield Street
Cape Town
8001
Written permission for the addition of new routes must be obtained from the Committee prior to the commencement of bolting. All applications will be considered against the principles contained in the environmental policy. Approval will be subject to compliance with the management actions detailed in section 5.2.1. The Committee will be required to respond to applications within 4 weeks.
Existing sport climbing areas which fall into this category are presented in Annexure 2.
Venues that currently fall into this category are detailed in Annexure 2.
A written proposal should be submitted to the SCWC, through the MCSA, and should include the following information:
* map detail showing the exact position of the
venue/s, as well as proposed access path/s
* detail of other potential users of the area, including comment on any
possible impact that climbing may have in this regard (positive and negative)
* comment on the flora and fauna in the area. This should be a general comment
on the existence of indigenous or alian vegetation and some idea of their
relative abundance and a comment on the amount of vegetation that will be
impacted upon.
* comment on thenature of archaeological andpalaeontological deposits or
any rock art
* comment on the quality of the access path/s and base of the crag, including
recommendations for upgrading, or the need for new paths, if any
* comment on the quality of the rock, in particular any loose rock that
may pose a safety threat
The SCWC shall forward these proposals to SANP, who will jointly undertake a physical examination of the area within a month.
If there is insufficient information for decision making, at the discretion of either the SCWC or SANP further professional assessment of the area may be required prior to decision-making. This will be organised by the SCWC. At the discretion of the SCWC or SANP approval may be granted subject to the fulfilment of certain conditions. It is the responsibility of the Committee to ensure these are met before issuing written permission to individuals, without which sport climbing activities may not commence.
The criteria by which proposed venues are assessed shall be in accordance with the principles laid out in the environmental policy. When a venue is approved it will be afforded status for management purposes as either an existing sport climbing venue or a sport climbing venue in a sensitive area. The routes of any new paths required to the new venue willbe specified and recommendations made for construction.
The SCWC is required to issue a decision within 3 months of the receipt of an application, unless circumstances do not permit it.
The SCWC will make use of the following mediums to disseminate information regarding this Management Programme and information related to sport climbing activities:
SANP holds ultimate decision-making authority and will be responsible for policing the system.
SANP will attend bi-annual meetings with the SCWC and respond to the recommendations of the SCWC.
They will regulate and be responsible for:
* Approval of new climbing venues;
* Providing material and technical advice regarding the upgrading and maintenance
of paths to venues and construction of new paths.
In conjunction with the SCWC they will also monitor
* the state of paths;
* the state of a venue regarding vegetation, litter and erosion. SANP is
the managing authority and will act on individuals' transgressions as they
see fit, within the law.
5.1.2 Sport Climbing Working Committee
The SCWC monitor and regulate the activities associated
with sport climbing venues. They will help to monitor and regulate:
* the state of paths;
* the state of a venue regarding vegetation, litter, waste and erosion;
* promote the safety and proper equipping of sport routes;
The SCWC will report to SANP on a bi-annual basis regarding the condition of paths and venues. The SCWC in conjunction with SANP will be responsible for organising work meets to maintain and upgrade paths exclusively used to access sport climbing venues.
The SCWC will control the placement of additional routes according to aforementioned policy and management actions and keep up to date records of all sport routes within the Peninsula Chain. The SCWC will liaise with National Parks Board and other relevant experts to consider applications for sport climbing at new venues.
5.2 Correction And Enforcement
SANP, as the landowner and manager, holds ultimate decision-making authority, and will act on individuals' transgressions as they see fit, within the law. This may include the imposition of fines that would be determined by SANP.
In the interests of co-operation, however, the SCWC will act as watchdog over sport-climbing activities and attempt to defuse conflict before this point is reached. Where new routes are placed without the written permission of the SCWC, the Committee, in conjunction with SANP, will be responsible to arrange for fixed protection to be removed.
5.3 Review
The SCWC and SANP will meet not less than twice
per year to review the Environmental Management Programme and discuss relevant
issues and concerns. These meetings will also include the presentation by
the Committee of a summary report detailing :
* the actions need to upgrade paths as described earlier;
* updates on all sport routes within the Table Mountain Chain.
In addition, this management system should be updated to reflect the results of the bi-annual meeting.
6.1 Contributers
Cheryl Jenks, Ed February, Jayson Orton, Ross Suter, Maretha Shroyer, Guy Holwill, Steve Downing,Paul Schlotveldt
6.2 Consultation with Sport Climbers
A meeting was held on 10 February 1999, to present the draft Environmental Management Plan for Climbing. The aim of the meeting was to determine any issues and concerns sport climbers may have and to gain their input into the document. A list of people who attended the meeting as well as people who commented on the document is found in Annexure 4.
6.3 Way Forward
After evaluation by the SANP this document will be widely circulated to climbers and other relevant persons for comment after which it will be amended, re-evaluated by SANP and finally adopted as policy.
6.4 References
Downing, S. 1997. Draft Management Plan for Sport
Climbing on the Peninsula Mountain Chain
Holwill, G. 1997. Western Cape Crags.
Nattrass, R. and Uken, R. 1994. Management of Climbing in the Shongweni
Resources Reserve.
SABS ISO 14001: 1996. South African Standard. Code of Practice. Environmental
management systems - Specification with guidance for use.
Annexure 1: Location of Climbing Venues
Annexure 2: Categories of Climbing Venues
Annexure 3: Location of Significant Archaeological Material at Sport Climbing
Venues
Annexure 4: Attendance Register and List of People who submitted comments
A 1:50 000 map indicates the location of the present sport climbing areas in the south of Table Mountain. Additional areas are found at Higgovale quarry, Vredehoek Slate Quarry and on the Lion's Head Granite. (Unfortunately not available on Web Page - Web Editor)
A listing of the areas falling under existing sport climbing venues and those that are deemed sensitive.
The Mine, Peer's Cave, Schoorsteenkop, Trappieskop, Silvermine Crag, Lakeside Pinnacle, Higgovale Quarry, Vredehoek Slate Quarry, Misty Cliffs
The Hole
In 1997 a pair of Peregrine falcons nested at the Hole. Climbers were
asked to stop climbing at the venue for the time they were nesting. This
request was adhered to with climbers showing a great deal of consideration.
If the pair of falcons continue to nest in the area, the climbing ban should
be adhered to.
Lion's Head Granite
Climbing occurs on the slabs around the foothills of Lion's Head, and
climbing here represents some of the earliest ascents in local climbing
history. Access paths are excellent. Climbing occurs distant from the hiking
trails used by casual walkers. Due to the generally flat base around the
slabs, damage to vegetation through erosion is minimal. The historical and
cultural significance of Lion's Head has required that additional routes
be considered on a case by case basis.
Elsies Peak
Climbing occurs on the higher walls along the cliff face which can
be considered inaccessible to non-climbers. A pair of Black Eagles nest
some hundred metres further around the cliff. Although it is the considered
opinion of the Committee and other experts consulted that climbing activities
will not impinge on the eagles, it is the Committee's recommendation that
during nesting season new sport routes be approved only with clear visual
examination of the proposed route relative to the nest, and on the recommendation
of appropriate expert opinion.