Figure 3.1.6 Two acceptable arrangements of U-bolts for Lower-off Anchors
Acknowledgement and Disclaimer: Authors
March 1999
Any person following any of these guidelines does so entirely at their own risk.
The individuals who have contributed to this document will not accept any responsibility
or liability for any claim from whomsoever of whatsoever nature arising, whether
directly or indirectly, from the use or misuse of the information contained
in these guidelines.
Acknowledgement and Disclaimer: MCSA
Mountaineering and climbing is by its very nature potentially hazardous. The
core of mountaineering and climbing is decision-making and self-responsibility.
Prior and competent knowledge is assumed and information supplied here is not
intended to be the only source of information. Every attempt is made to ensure
that information provided here is correct and safe, but it is not a substitute
for your judgement. In using the provided information, the reader hereby releases
the authors and providers of said information from any liability, including
death, that might result.
Links to sites or information about suppliers do not imply endorsement by the
MCSA.
This document lays out a set of guidelines for fixed protection on both new and existing rock climbs in the Western Cape. These guidelines may be adopted by other provinces if required.
The guidelines and associated recommendations in this document cover fixed protection hardware, and its location on rock climbs. This document does not provide any information with regard to instructing on the mechanism of placement – it is assumed that the user of this set of guidelines has adequate experience or tuition in the correct placing of the specific items of fixed protection.
The guidelines are NOT locality specific. That is, the same guidelines apply for coastal and inland venues, and for exposed (weather) as well as protected areas.
These guidelines are set out as follows: firstly specifications for bolt types (runners) are covered; secondly specifications for lower-off anchors; and finally recommendations for the safe location of bolts and anchors are provided.
The following are considered UNACCEPTABLE practices
in placing fixed protection: 2.2.1 The use of mild-steel hardware.
2.2.2 The use of HKD ("Drop-in") anchors.
2.2.3 The use of welded EYE-bolts (glue-in type bolts). Only forged, tested
EYE-bolts are acceptable.
2.2.4 The use of "home-mixed" glues for fixing glue-in anchors.
The following are recommendations with regard to the application of the specifications listed in 2.1.1 to 2.1.6:
2.3.1 The preferred fixed protection is glue-in type
bolts (2.1.4-2). Where possible these should be used exclusively. However, on
overhanging routes it is very difficult to place glue-in bolts when opening
the route. This is due to the fact that the glue requires time to set, and bolts
are required to take load immediately to assist in the placing of subsequent
bolts. In this type of situation, it is recommended that stud anchors be used
for a limited period of time. Their corrosion condition should be monitored,
and, when necessary, the route should be re-bolted with glue-in anchors only.
2.3.2 Care should be taken with excess glue on the glue-in type anchors. Excess
glue should be removed to avoid sharp or rough deposits of glue that can damage
ropes if the bolt is used for lowering.
3.1.1 The only acceptable material for lower-off
anchors is structural stainless steel.
3.1.2 Only hardware designed and tested specifically for climbing is acceptable
for lower-off anchors.
3.1.3 The ultimate failure load for lower-off anchors (individual bolts) in
physical tests must be not less than 20kN.
3.1.4 At least two bolts must be used for a single lower-off station.
3.1.5 Spacing between the bolts must be not less than 150mm and not more than
300mm.
3.1.6 The acceptable lower-off arrangement for glue-in U-bolts is shown in Figure
3.1.6. Two U-bolts are placed one above the other with their two holes forming
an angle of approximately 45 degrees to the horizontal.
| Figure 3.1.6 Two acceptable arrangements of U-bolts for Lower-off Anchors |
3.1.7 If desired, an even number (two or four) links
of chain can be fitted to the U-bolts during placing to prevent rope wear on
the bolts themselves. This chain must conform to the specifications of items
3.1.1 to 3.1.3.
3.1.8 Stud anchors may be used for lower-off anchors, provided they are fitted
with stainless steel chain in accordance with items 3.1.1 to 3.1.3. The chain
must be attached to the bolt hangers using daisy chain links. An even number
of chain links (two or four) must be used, including the daisy chain link. Item
2.3.1 also applies to the use of stud anchors for lower-offs.
The following are considered UNACCEPTABLE practices
in the placing of fixed lower-off anchors:
3.2.1 The use of mild steel hardware.
3.2.2 The bolting of chain directly to stud anchors.
3.2.3 The use of home-made cut and welded chain.
3.2.4 The use of coldshuts.
3.2.5 The use of shackles.
3.2.6 Placing of the bolts at the same level.
The following are recommendations with regard to
the safe location of bolts when opening a new route:
4.1 The 1st bolt should be placed not more than 4m above the ground, regardless
of the difficulty of the climbing.
4.2 The 2nd bolt should placed not more than ½ the distance from the ground
to the 1st bolt above the 1st bolt, regardless of the difficulty of the climbing.
4.3 Subsequent bolts should be placed such that all possible falls are judged
to be safe, regardless of the difficulty of the climbing.
4.4 Bolts should preferably be placed on a locally overhanging section of rock,
to avoid rope drag and rope wear.
4.5 Bolts should be placed in open areas, rather than corners.
4.6 Bolts should NOT be placed at the base of a roof, but rather IN the roof.
4.7 Care should be taken when placing a bolt at the lip of a roof. This should
be done such that the rope running through the quickdraw will not drag over
the roof lip in the event of a fall onto this bolt.
4.8 Consideration should be given to the position from which a bolt is clipped.
The clipping position should be realistic with regard to the grade of the route,
and the difficulty of surrounding moves (If possible a route should be top-roped
prior to the placing of any bolts, to help ensure correct placement).
4.9 Lower-off anchors should be placed on an overhanging section of rock, where
possible, to avoid rope wear. Where this is not possible, lengths of chain should
be used to reduce rope wear.
4.10 All protection bolts should be placed in dry rock. If a zone of rock is
either perennially or seasonally damp both glue-in and mechanical (stud) bolts
will degrade (the bond between the glue and rock will weaken; or the steel will
corrode).
Recommended Suppliers
Stud bolts (Express or Kwik Anchors) are available from UPAT or HILTI.
U-bolts are available from Andy Davies.
Bolt hangers are available from ALPHA VERTICAL and VEKTOR.
Daisy chain links are available from climbing stores in Cape Town.