Little need to be said by way of preface in attempting some description of the Mountain Club's chief excursion in 1894. The proportions which its Members' Roll has attained would, apart from any other reason, amply justify the Club's existence, while the enquiry " Why climb mountains?" has been satisfactorily disposed of, from our point of view at least, in the previous issue of the Annual.
We may therefore plunge at once, as that means our readers will sooner reach the top of Mostert's Hoek, and with a view to dispelling any mists which may obscure the mental vision of distant readers, we may say that Mostert's Hoek is plural, that is, double peaked. They are the Mountain Twins ding sentinel duty at the entrance of Mitchell's Pass. Their attitude is essentially dignified, but they are to be wooed and won, and those who think the game worth trying, and succeed, are satisfied beyond even sanguine expectations; at least so think the Mountain Men (and Women). But let their story be told.
The expedition of 1894 (and it is a pity there is only one a year) was only arranged apparently after some trouble and diversity of opinion, as in determining upon Club Expeditions, various considerations have to betaken into account, which need not here be referred to in detail. Ceres Road Station, however, answered all the requirements of Headquarters for all sections of the Club, its off-shoots and allies, and the Committee are to be congratulated upon the excellent choice of locality, for upon this much of the popularity and success of the last tow year's excursions is to be attributed. There are mountains many in the Western Province, but those attractive to Club Men, and accessible within the limited time and means at the disposal of the majority of members, are not so numerous.
In the choice of Matroosberg, in 1893, with Hex River East as a base, and Mostert's Hoek last season, with Ceres Road as a base, the Club has been particularly fortunate, for the reasons already stated, the places being sufficiently remote from centres of population to prevent the contents of Camp Kettles and Picnic Baskets being too closely scrutinised by profane outsiders, and yet each locality possessing a "Mine Host" and General Dealer available to supply the unduly large gaps which mountain air invariably makes in provisions, and mountain geography of a physical kind in clothing. Right well did the local "Institutions" welcome the Club.
But we are again off the track, and must come back to the starting point, which was Cape Town terminus on Saturday evening the 29th September last.The usual half-dozen friends mustered on the platform to see each man off, and the lady members commanded at least half a dozen each, but lady members have privileges! The ranks of the Club were swollen by members of the Photographic Club, in reponse to a special invitation; otherwise excepting lady friends, the excursion was wisely restricted to members only. As always on these occasions, the best of good spirits were noticeable all round, even inside suspicious looking baskets, the contents of which began to develop very early after the "right away".
The train ran, as on the previous similar occasion, in duplicate with the Northern Mails as far as the Club's destination, and excepting impossible attempts at sleep owing to the good spirits above alluded to, there is little of moment to chronicle as regards the journey.
The extraordinary series of shunting and bumping operations told of the arrival at Ceres Road, where anchor was at last comfortably let go, and sleep became possible.
Speculation as to the weather had been rife all the previous day, and Wellington and Worcester Members were deterred from joining by the threatening elements.
Sunday morning broke, without improvement, the sky a leaden grey and the mountains enveloped in mist. Anxious eyes were repeatedly turned to the direction in which Mostert's Hoek was said to lie, but the veil remained impenetrable all day. No one of the party had previously been on this mountains, and in view of eventualities on the morrow, Dr. Marloth with a few companions walked over to the entrance of the Pass, in the hope of getting a guide, or at least accurate climbing directions. Enquiries at the Waveley Milles and at Retief's farm, failed to elicit the desired information, and no guide could be obtained, for the simple reason that no one then in the vicinity had been up before. There was thus a delightful element of uncertainty, which so far from damping ardour added a tinge of the romantic thereto, and the attractiveness which usually accompanies the unknown. Mrs. Retief, however, proved to be a Dutch lady of the old and right sort. Platt Deutsch and the Taal usually fraternise well, and not only was the party hospitably received but the good lady undertook that her husband, then absent, should do all he could for the climbers on the morrow. Returning to the railway cars, numerous groups were met interesting themselves after their kind. Photographers, Botanists, Beetle-catchers, all more or less uncomfortably wetted by the smart showers which had been falling during the morning. Some had been over the Kluitjes Kraal Plantation, which is well worthy of a visit and affords splendid demonstration of what the soil is capable of, when abundant supplies of water are available.
Long before daylight on the Monday, anxious conferences on the part of the Club Committee took place, and were renewed almost every half-hour until 5.15 a.m. when the final announcement was made known, viz.; "The carts for the base of the Mounatin will start at 5.30 a.m. but the Committee recommends that only experienced Mountaineers take part in the ascent."
Notwithstanding all adverse influences, however, a number of the party made up their minds to at least reconnoitre the position, if they could not climb the Mountain,and so at last as the mule-wagon rolled up, it was found that there were 16 "Non-contents", including, to the surprise of most present, four Ladies, whose enthusiasm was witnessed by the Members of the Committee with some dismay, as it was feared that these "new women" hardly sufficiently realised the fatigues, discomforts and even risks which lay before them,
With a sense of responsibility for which the Committee cannot be blamed, attempts were made to dissuade the Ladies from the trip, and with a consistency which deserves all praise,some well-known mountaineers denied themselves the pleasures and excitements of the day, desiring by their example conscientiously to deter others from what, it was feared, would prove an abortive expedition, if not worse.
The division of opinion was, however, practically on the point of personal comfort, rather than principle, as there was no intention on the part of those who started to court unnecessary risks.
Eventually at 5.30 a.m. the wagon rolled away, a member of the Fourth Estate hanging on behind. The latter's disappearaance was as mysterious as his advent. He did not ascend the Mounatin, but while of the party, he was "all there", and so was the account of the expedition in his newspaper. Thanks to the DivisionalCouncil and the springless wagon, the party got well shaken together by the time the Pass was reached.They were shaken out opposite the Bridge and as a smart shower was falling at the time, a run was made for Retief's Farm, the ladies leading and unconsciously evoking the commiseration of their followers, few of whom expected to see petticoats gofar up the Mountain on such a day. Mrs. Retief was as good as her bond, for her good man was there with his sandwiches packed, and himself ready to act as guide. He had never been more than about half way up the Mountain before, but his services were invaluable at the outset.
After some kind of dress drill by the Ladies, an evolution that, for a benighted batchelor, was mysterious and unintelligible, a start was made at 7 a.m., the attack being commenced from the side facing the Bridge.
The route lay for some distance up a fine Kloof, which in ministerial parlance seemed to possess "great potentialities", notwithstanding the somewhat forlorn appearance of a line of young oak saplings. Crossing a strongly running Mountain spruit, the guide headed at a right angle up a fairly steep slope, densely covered with undergrowth, making this flank movement out of consideration for the Ladies, who, he said, would have found the direct ascent very stiff work indeed. The mountain air already began to tell on the spirits of the party, for several commenced to head the guide, and as a result split up into separate groups. It was, however, highly essential that all should keep together, apart from mere courtesy to Mr. Retief, for the mist was now increasing in density as the party ascended.
Over the first ridge, the route lay to the left, and a steady walk of two hours found all together again at 9 a.m. at Paarde Kraal, where a halt was called for a council of war. The guide now plainly said that he had gone as far as was prudent. Further up, the Mountain was trackless, and except for a little distance unknown to him, and as long as the mist lasted he would not take the responsibility of escorting the Ladies further. The nether garments of the whole party was already saturated, and the prospect of a tedious "wait until the clouds rolled by" anything but pleasant. With the moisture dripping from every bush, there did not seem much hope of kindling a fire, but perseverance was eventually rewarded after a great expenditure of matches and sandwich wrappers, and the blaze quickly put an entirely different light upon the situation. An hour was spent in drying toggery, discussing a stand-up breakfast, and speculating on the probability of better weather.
The more active Members of the party at last became restless and as it was evident that they would slip away in the mist if some decision were not arrived at, a split was agreed upon, those determined to try for the Peak were to take their own course, while the guide with the others remained with the Ladies, who were solaced by permission to follow on, if the weather cleared within a reasonable time, failing which, they would be escorted down to he farm again. Careful stock was now taken of the party, which consisted of ten men and four Ladies; the post of honour was with the Ladies, but the following six deserted for the summit, namely: Messrs. Cameron, Bolus, Macfarlane, Amphlett, Mann, and Dr. Marloth; leaving the Ladies in charge of Mr. Retief and Messrs. Spilhaus, Versveld, and Dr. Van der Riet. The ladies were Mrs. Fred. Mills, Miss Ball. Miss Wilman, and Miss Ida Trill.
As the advanced six detached themselves, "good-byes" were earnestly exchanged, for the spirit of Camaraderie was already apparent, and the one party was plunging into the unknown, while the other was crest-fallen at the prospect of having to abandon keenly cherished hopes of reaching the summit.
The six then strode off at a pace and with apparent recklessness which surprised the steady-going farmer.The route lay up a charming grassy slope. Covered with Arum lilies, and in finer weather, the place woud have made a splendid Breakfast Camp. The rear party was at once lost to a view in the mist, which remained dense, though the forward men were hopeful that it would lift. Bearing to the left again, ridge after ridge was surmounted, the ground here being covered with loose stones and short scrub. The weather now gave indications of improvement and glimpses of sunshine shortly afterwards followed. Here and there patches of blue sky could be seen, and a cheer from the Ladies and their escort far down below told that although not visible they were following on. The forward men had meanwhile been making the pace, and the party of six soon became sub-divided into three parties of two each, who took independent routes and soon lost touch of each other.
Above, the Mountain was still shrouded in mist and no idea as to position could be formed. Below, it was tolerably clear, and the rear party could be distinguished, mere specks far down, but "toiling on". The fog now became denser, and all hope of the Ladies reaching the top was abandoned by the Pioneers. Crossing another ridge into some hollow ground, two of the detached couples were unconsciously near to each other. One of these went over the opposite shoulder with the idea of working round what appeared to be the base of the first Peak. This surmise proved ultimately to be correct, but the endeavour to flank the Peak soon brought the couple into different country altogether, and it was neceassary to proceed with caution. Several ineffectual attempts were made to negatiate ledges and terraces, - the place was wild in the extreme, with nasty precipices intervening between high butresses of the mountain-side. A photograph of the mountain portion of a surveyor's chart availed little, it being impossible in the mist to obtain one's bearings accurately, and it was in any case doubtful whether a way could be found in that direction to the second Peak, which was known to be the higher, and therefore was the ultimate goal. Between the two Peaks it was also known that there was a deep kloof, to which the men were naturally anxious to be introduced on level terms.
Ultimately there was no alternative but reluctantly to return to the shoulder, when the second couple, who had been all over the country and unable to make out their whereabouts, were met.
The quartett then followed the original idea as to the locality of the first Peak and soon found themselves steadily rising. The ground was rough, but no breaks intervened, and as the mist was lifting, hope became buoyant, and was increased by the finding of a small circular mirror. The party were evidently nearing the summit of a peak, but which one? Presently a Bamboo Flagstaff, guyed with stout wires, made it clear that the top was reached, and speculation was rife as to its being the higher one of the two, but voices far ahead dispelled the illusion, for Messrs. Bolus and Cameron, who seem instinctively to have struck the correct track to the first Peak, had, during a lucid interval, descried the second one, with the unmistakableBeacon and the inevitable Gorge between. The remaining four soon followed, and this was perhaps the most interesting part of the climb.
The Peak was covered with snow patches, and the reeds with icicles. Rocks were piled up in shapeless confusion, with awkward manholes between, where a slip might have been extremely unpleasant. The climb down was therefore cautiously undertaken; elbows and fingers were indispensable, and the negotiation of this tit-bit was essentially pretty. The dip was said to be 400 feet. Crossing Donker Kloof, the second Peak was tackled from the rear, and the Beacon reached without difficulty at 1 p.m., just an hour from the first Peak. Refreshment and repose - both well earned- lasted until 2 p.m. and Mr. Bolus, acting as Recorder, deposited details of the party, including the names of the ladies, in a cavity of the beacon.
Mostert's Hoek has not yet been thoroughly surveyed, but the two Peaks are estimated as nearly a mile apart, as the crow flies.
The Aneroid reading indicated an altitude of 6,500 feet whilst the Thermometer stood at 44 degrees Fahr.
While preparing for the descent, the men were startled by the sound of voices though the mist from the direction of the first Peak. Ladies' voices could be distinctly heard, and the first impulse of the advance sextet was to hail their fair friends with "three times three", but after accomplishing the climb under such circumstances, there was no knowing what these "emancipated ones" would not do, and fear was expressed that any encouragement would lead them to tackle the second Peak also. This would have been the most hazardous part of their climb, and it was getting late, so wiser counsels prevailed, and the forward men "lay low."
The descent was commenced at 2.15 p.m. After recrossing Donker Kloof, it was again essayed to work round the base of the first Peak, Krantzes however repeatedly checked progress, and the attempt had to be abandoned, an hour and a half being thus lost.
Ultimately the first Peak had again to be scaled, when evidence of the presence of the Ladies was discovered in a white ensign hoisted on a long bamboo. The serviette was not tied to the existing flagstaff, which apparently was not high enough to please the Ladies, but on a bamboo fixed in a pile of rocks at the very pinnacle of the Peak.
It was at this stage that the "weather of our discontent was made glorious sunshine," for the occasional glimpses of the country round about were now merged by the complete dispersal of the mists, and the party were additionally rewarded for their climb by a Panorama that really beggars description, for readers cannot possibly form any conception of the beauty of the scene. The view from Matroosberg is grand, but intercepted in some directions by towering mountains. The same may be said of the Sneeuwkop near Wellington, but Mostert's Hoek affords an all-round view, which mountain men should take the earliest opportunity of seeing.
From Table Mountain to the Winterhoek and from the latter to Matroosberg were spread out, in a delightful panorama, mountains and valleys too numerous to benamed. The whole of the Breede River valley from Tulbagh toWorcester, with all its villages and farms, with Bain's Kloof, Du Toit's Kloof, &c., and many others less known, lay at the foot, and following the course of the river the eye was guided though Mitchell's Pass, just below, to Ceres and the Bokkeveld, where only the distant Cedarbergen limited the view.
In the east there was the Hex River Rage with many wild and rugged peaks and ridges, many of them of similar height to Mostert's Hoek, or surpassing it considerably, like Matroosberg at its northern extremity. One could spend hours and hours in gazing at this world of mountains, so varied and so picturesque is all this scenery.
Otherwise there is little to chronicle respecting the descent. Two of the party took what seemd to be a short cut down the face, the side which the guide had outflanked going up and wisely too, for the boulders and bush were of the kind with which a distinguished musician-mountaineer and very select party made acquaintance coming down Matroosberg.
Some rare plants were found near the summit. Among these may be mentioned a species of Thamnea, only recently described by Mr. H. Bolus; Protea saxicola, found previously on the Groot Winterhoek and Matroosberg, and a new species of heath, found originally by Dr. Marloth on the Winterhoek and last year on the Matroosberg, from which specimens it has been described since by Mr. H. Bolus as Erica nubigena.
These facts are highly interesting, showing that the summiits of our higher mountains possess a flora of their own, with many rare or altogether undescribed species that are waiting for their discoverer.
When the farm was reached shortly afer 6 p.m., the entire party found themselves in excellent trim and appreciated the tea and other attentions of Mrs. Retief. The mule-wagon was already in attendance and the railway station was reached at 8 p.m., all being immensely pleased with the outing, which had been without hitch or accident except to the sole of a lady's shoe.